A Day Cream made with natural ingredients. Specially formulated to minimise soaping on the skin. The product is
emulsified with Emulsun® a botanical, low-cost, sunflower-derived o/w emulsifier. Emulsun® is an excellent choice to create stable, aesthetically pleasing emulsions. The active is auraFirm P a fermented Oat active to improve skin health and boost cell turnover.

Formula# MADU0140

Trade Name INCI Name  Function %W/W Supplier
1 Water Aqua Solvent 66.91
2 Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT Phytic Acid, Aqua Chelating Agent 0.1 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia
3 Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural Sodium Anisate Multi-functional 0.3 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia
4 Sodium Hydroxide 50% Solution Sodium Hydroxide and Aqua pH Adjustment 0.04 Merck
5 Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural Propanediol Humectant 3 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia
6 DermiVeil Hordeum vulgare Powder Thickener 5 Oat Cosmetics Via ProTec Ingredia
7 Emulsun® Polyglycerol-3 Sunflowerate, Sunflower Glycerides, Cetearyl Alcohol, and Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Emulsifier 5 Floratech Via ProTec Ingredia
8 Floraesters® 15 Jojoba Esters Emollient non-greasy melting point 10-15°C 3.5 Floratech Via ProTec Ingredia
9 Floraesters® 20 Jojoba Esters Emollient melting point  42-48° 3.5 Floratech Via ProTec Ingredia
10 Floraesters® 60 Jojoba Esters Emollient melting point  66-70° 2.5 Floratech Via ProTec Ingredia
11 Carnauba Wax SP-63 Carnauba Wax Natural wax 0.35 Cornelius
12 Floviva Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil Emollient 2 ProTec Botanica
13 Oat Lipid e Avena sativa (oat kernel) oil Emollient 1 Oat Cosmetics Via ProTec Ingredia
14 Cetiol® MM Myristyl Myristate Consistency Factor 4 BASF Corporation
15 Cosphaderm® LA-T Levulinic Acid, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Aqua Multi-functional 0.8 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia
16 Aurafirm P Lactobacillus Ferment, Avena sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate Active Ingredient 2 Oat Cosmetics Via ProTec Ingredia

Method of Manufacture


Into the main vessel add:

Purified Water (1):  Start the mixer on a moderate fast\speed.
Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT:  Mix until dissolved.
Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural:  Mix until dispersed.
Sodium Hydroxide:  Mix until clear and homogenous.
DermiVeil:  Mix until fully dispersed and no clumps or lumps remain.
Propanediol:  Mix until dispersed.

 

Commence heating the main vessel to 80C.

Into the premix vessel add:
Emulsun®
Floraesters® 15
Floraesters® 20
Floraesters® 60
Carnauba Wax SP-63
Floviva Sweet Almond Oil
Oat Lipid e
Cetiol® MM

 

Commence heating the premix vessel to 80C.
When both vessels are at 80C add the premix vessel into the main vessel.
Homogenise for 5 minutes.
After 5 minutes commence cooling the main vessel to 23C
Adjust the mixer speed accordingly as the batch thickens. Avoid aeration.

When the bulk is at 50C or below into the main vessel add:
Cosphaderm® LA-T: Mix until homogenous.
Aurafirm P: Mix until homogenous.

Cool to 23C and check the product specifications

Product Specifications
pH:  5.30 – 6.00
Viscosity: 20-30,000cps LVT, Spindle 4, Speed 12, 1 minute
Colour: Off-white
Appearance: Mobile viscous cream