A Formulation to demonstrate the emulsifying capabilities of PolyAquol™-2W. A patent pending O/W polyglycerol self-emulsifier. This natural emulsifier is Ecocert and Cosmos approved. PolyAquol™-2W possesses a wide range of formulation compatibility while providing a unique skin feel to emulsions. On a more functional level, the emulsifier PolyAquol™-2W can generate highly organized liquid crystals important to provide stability to the emulsion and to ensure compatibility with the skin. Clinically, the natural emulsifier PolyAquol™-2W was shown to prevent and repair damage caused to the skin barrier function by UV exposure.
Formula #FEFE1833
| Trade Name | INCI Name | Function | %W/W | Supplier | |
| 1 | Water (1) | Aqua | Solvent | 45.8 | |
| 2 | Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT | Phytic Acid, Aqua | Chelating Agent | 0.1 | Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia |
| 3 | Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural | Sodium Anisate | Multi-functional | 0.3 | Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia |
| 4 | Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural | Propanediol | Humectant | 4 | Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia |
| 5 | Sodium Hydroxide 50% Solution | Sodium Hydroxide and Aqua | pH Adjustment | 0.04 | Merck |
| 6 | DermiVeil | Hordeum vulgare Powder | Rheology Modifier | 4 | Oat Cosmetics Via ProTec Ingredia |
| 7 | PolyAquol™-2W | Polyglyceryl-2- Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol | Emulsifier | 5 | Innovacos Via ProTec Ingredia |
| 8 | Floviva Grapeseed Oil | Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil | Emollient | 12 | ProTec Botanica |
| 9 | Floraesters® 15 | Jojoba esters | Emollient | 6 | FloraTech Via ProTec Ingredia |
| 10 | Lanette O | Cetearyl Alcohol | Co-Emulsifier | 4 | BASF Corporation |
| 11 | Crodamol GTCC | Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides | Emollient | 12 | Croda |
| 12 | Virgin Poppy Seed Oil | Papaver Somniferum Seed Oil | Emollient | 6 | Oat Cosmetics Via ProTec Ingredia |
| 13 | Cosphaderm® LA-T | Levulinic Acid, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Aqua | Multi-functional | 0.8 | Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia |
Method of Manufacture
Into the main vessel add:
Aqua: Start the mixer on a fast speed.
Phytic Acid: Mix until fully dispersed and no lumps or clumps remain.
Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural: Mix until dispersed.
Sodium Hydroxide: Mix until clear and homogenous.
DermiVeil: Slowly sprinkle into the vortex of the mixer.
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural: Mix until dispersed.
Commence heating the main vessel to 80C.
Into the premix vessel add:
PolyAquol™-2W
Floviva Grapeseed Oil
Floraesters® 15
Lanette O
Crodamol GTCC
Virgin Poppy Seed Oil
Commence heating the premix vessel to 80C
When both vessels are at 75-80C add the premix vessel into the main vessel & homogenise for 5 mins
Stir the main vessel at a moderate/slow speed.
Start cooling the batch to 23C.
When the batch is 50C or below into the main vessel add:
Cosphaderm® LA-T
Continue to cool to 23C
When the bulk is 23C check the product specifications.
Product Specifications
pH: 5.30-6.00
Viscosity: 30,000-50,000 cps RVT TBAR D Speed 5.0, 1 minute
Colour: White
Appearance: Mobile viscous cream