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A Formulation to demonstrate the emulsifying capabilities of PolyAquol™-2W. A patent pending O/W polyglycerol self-emulsifier. This natural emulsifier is Ecocert and Cosmos approved. PolyAquol™-2W possesses a wide range of formulation compatibility while providing a unique skin feel to emulsions. On a more functional level, the emulsifier PolyAquol™-2W can generate highly organized liquid crystals important to provide stability to the emulsion and to ensure compatibility with the skin. Clinically, the natural emulsifier PolyAquol™-2W was shown to prevent and repair damage caused to the skin barrier function by UV exposure.

Formula #FEFE1833

Trade Name INCI Name Function %W/W Supplier
1 Water (1) Aqua Solvent 45.8
2 Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT Phytic Acid, Aqua Chelating Agent 0.1 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia
3 Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural Sodium Anisate Multi-functional 0.3 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia
4 Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural Propanediol Humectant 4 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia
5 Sodium Hydroxide 50% Solution Sodium Hydroxide and Aqua pH Adjustment 0.04 Merck
6 DermiVeil Hordeum vulgare Powder Rheology Modifier 4 Oat Cosmetics Via ProTec Ingredia
7 PolyAquol™-2W Polyglyceryl-2- Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 5 Innovacos Via ProTec Ingredia
8 Floviva Grapeseed Oil Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil Emollient 12 ProTec Botanica
9 Floraesters® 15 Jojoba esters Emollient 6 FloraTech Via ProTec Ingredia
10 Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol Co-Emulsifier 4 BASF Corporation
11 Crodamol GTCC Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Emollient 12 Croda
12 Virgin Poppy Seed Oil Papaver Somniferum Seed Oil Emollient 6 Oat Cosmetics Via ProTec Ingredia
13 Cosphaderm® LA-T Levulinic Acid, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Aqua Multi-functional 0.8 Cosphatec GmbH Via ProTec Ingredia

Method of Manufacture

Into the main vessel add:
Aqua: Start the mixer on a fast speed.
Phytic Acid: Mix until fully dispersed and no lumps or clumps remain.
Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural: Mix until dispersed.
Sodium Hydroxide: Mix until clear and homogenous.
DermiVeil: Slowly sprinkle into the vortex of the mixer.
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural: Mix until dispersed.

Commence heating the main vessel to 80C.

Into the premix vessel add:
Floviva Grapeseed Oil
Floraesters® 15
Lanette O
Crodamol GTCC
Virgin Poppy Seed Oil

Commence heating the premix vessel to 80C

When both vessels are at 75-80C add the premix vessel into the main vessel & homogenise for 5 mins
Stir the main vessel at a moderate/slow speed.
Start cooling the batch to 23C.

When the batch is 50C or below into the main vessel add:
Cosphaderm® LA-T
Continue to cool to 23C
When the bulk is 23C check the product specifications.

Product Specifications
pH: 5.30-6.00
Viscosity: 30,000-50,000 cps RVT TBAR D Speed 5.0, 1 minute
Colour: White
Appearance: Mobile viscous cream